When first stepping into the world of Niseko, Hokkaido you are greeted by the big, bold, and beautiful mesmerizing view of the local volcano Mt Yotei. Also known as Ezo Fuji for its resemblance to Mt Fuji, the active volcano stands tall at 1,898 meters elevation.
During the summer months there are trails that can be followed up to the summit and crater, and these can be taken with a guide or at your own risk.
IMPORTANT: In the winter months it is highly, HIGHLY advised that each group attempting to summit has a registered guide with them at all times.
However, my group and I decided to go at our own risk to attempt the long climb.
This is not my recommendation, it is just my retelling of how we managed the climb.
The decision to not take a guide was due to the fact that two members of our party, one Canadian and one Frenchman, had advanced knowledge of backcountry skiing and mountaineering. If this wasn’t the case I would never have even contemplated attempting Mt Yotei. My recommendation to anyone would be to attain a guide for your safety and enjoyment.
What you'll learn
- Video of the climb
- Before you go
- What to pack
- How to climb Mt Yotei
- Summary
before you go
A nonnegotiable for all is to rent an avalanche backpack that comes with a shovel, probe and beacon. This can be picked up at a few spots around Hirafu at shops like Rhythm or we grabbed our gear from Mountain shop Niseko 343. Prior to the day a good idea is to learn how to use this equipment.
If on ski’s then here you can also hire skins that attach to your own or rental skis allowing you to grip as you walk over snow and ice. If, like me, you’re a snowboarder, then you’d want to pick up a set of snow shoes, without these you will not have a good time.
The ascent has a mixture of different snow types from hard sticky to light and deep snow. Regular snow boots or shoes will not allow you to stay on top of the snow or grip onto slippery sections. For your comfort and safety rent skins or snowshoes.
When contemplating this awesome adventure to reach the peak of Mt Yotei, please consider your own ability and fitness level, as well as the group you are with. This is not an afternoon stroll and can take anywhere from 6-12 hrs to complete. If your group has a guide then they will set the time to start and set a certain pace to allow for the whole group to feel comfortable.
What else to pack
- Water and lots of it!
- Food: eat a hearty breakfast before leaving and then bring enough food for constant snacks and lunch for energy.
- Clothing: the summit will probably be the coldest place you will ever go so bring your layers, serious winter jacket, pants, gloves, and face mask. However cold the top is, if you’ve chosen a nice day then there will be large sections of time on the way up where you will be sweaty and hot. So bring layers that you can strip on and off.
- Sunscreen and a hat for the warm journey up.
- Camera: a gopro is a good option for the harsh conditions and bring spare batteries because the cold can kill your battery very quickly. Likewise with your phone, bring a portable charger and try to keep it as warm as possible.
- I strapped my snowboard to the backpack in order to ski the crater on the way down.
how to climb mt yotei
Pick your route. There are a few spots to start the climb. We parked and began our trek from the Makkari trail head. The actual path up to the summit should be fairly laid out. Lots of groups make the climb and you can literally follow in their footsteps, unless there has been a big snow dump and you are the lucky first group. Of course this is for those without a guide.
Plan to make various short stops on the way up, but be efficient with your time. Most people who attempt this expedition during winter plan to ski the slope for a faster return journey. IMPORTANT: groups with no guide make sure you’re all confident and reasonably good skiers. This isn’t for the casual skier.
The ride into the crater is quick and sublime, however the climb out consists of very fresh soft snow. If you have the time and energy then it’s a must, otherwise make the most of reaching the summit, take some pics and then enjoy the slopes back down. Skiing the crater adds a good hour or more to the day.
Our party skied most of the way down but despite our early start, it began to get dark during our descent and we weren’t able to see our way. If this happens, continue downhill and you will eventually find a road to follow back. Thankfully Mt Yotei is surrounded in all directions by roads, so you will pop out somewhere, no matter how many farms stand between you. Even with an experienced and fit group this is what happened to us. Because we weren’t able to see where we were going we ended up coming out at a random road surrounded by farms. We had to call for help and someone had to come pick us up and take us back to the car. Learn from our mistakes!
in summary
- Make sure you have the stamina, gear and guide.
- Pick a nice day with good weather.
- Learn how to use your beacon.
- Pack enough and well, this isn’t the time to underpack, your bag will only get lighter during the day so fill it.
- Know when sundown is, and if you get to the summit and want to ski the crater, figure out whether you have the time. Do not get caught on the mountain at night.
Skiing the crater of Mt Yotei will be an adventure that won’t be easily forgotten and will get lots of attention when retold at pubs, bars, and hostels everywhere.
So good luck and remember that preparation is key, be safe out there.
